There are two threaded holes on the crankshaft pulley (C/S) with M8 (8 mm ) threads. Now, if you try to undo it, (I believe 21 mm socket and wrench), you will find that the engine will turn as you try to turn your wrench, so you will need to find a way to block the pulley and stop it from spinning. Now comes the tricky part: Undoing the crankshaft bolt. Loosen the mentioned above, and remove the two serpentine belts (P/S-A/C-C/S) and (Alternator-C/S-W/P).ħ. The green circle in the green insert shows the front of the jack bolt (this gets loosened thirdly and tightened appropriately for belt tensioning before tightening the lock bolt).Ħ. The green circle at the top of the pic shows the rear of the jack bolt. The blue circle shows the lock bolt loosened but not falling out (this get loosened 2nd and tightened this after tensioning with the jack bolt). The red insert shows the power steering unit's swivel bolt that you see on top of the engine (this gets loosened first, and tightened last). Here's the much better picture and more detailed explanation on this matter ( courtesy of Brcobrem ) Here's an example on a P/s pump, and the same principle is on an alternator. First, just untighten the swivel bolt, then the locking bolt, and then undo the jack bolt to release the tension on belt. Each of them has three bolts: Swivel bolt, jack bolt, and a locking bolt. To remove the two serpentine belts, undo the bolts holding the PS pump, and do the same with the alternator, (it could be tricky to access the alternator form above, so try from underneath the car). Unhook the camshaft position sensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs, and remove the valve cover.ĥ. Remove the splash guard from below the front of the car, exposing the bottom of the radiator.Ĥ. Remove the splash cover behind the wheel, exposing the crankshaft pulley.ģ. Jack up your front passenger-side wheel and remove it.Ģ. Well, I do not have any of my own project pictures, but I will paste some from the net.ġ. However, by having some average toolbox items, it is quite easy to do it without the SST. (air tools will not work on this bolt, trust me ). I have just changed mine, and, well, you do not need any special tools except you might encounter a problem of not being able do undo the crankshaft pulley bolt, which is difficult to do if you do not have the SST (special service tool). The water pump as well, coz, although not being powered by the timing belt on Proteges, it is prone to failure (bearing failures and/or leaks), but to replace it, the entire timing belt system has to be removed first to gain access to the pump. so after 100 000 Km (60 000 miles) all above mentioned should be replaced. the material weakens, micro cracks appear, and more importantly, both the belt idler and the belt tensioner bearings wear out, as well as the water pump bearings and it's shaft gaskets. Ok, although the belts may look fine, the time and mileage do their part. First of all, sorry for my bad english and spelling mistakes.(boom07)
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